In an exclusive interview with Indian Startup Times, Dr. Saurabh Arora, Managing Director of Auriga Research, explains why scientific testing is becoming central to skincare product development in India. As ingredient-conscious beauty gains momentum and D2C brands launch products at a rapid pace, Auriga Research is helping brands assess safety, efficacy, quality and stability before products reach consumers.
Testing skincare from formulation to launch
Auriga Research works with skincare brands from the product development stage, helping them identify suitable ingredients and develop formulations aligned with applicable Indian and international regulatory requirements. Once a formulation is developed, scientific testing helps assess its safety, quality and efficacy before it reaches consumers. For safety assessment, Auriga Research conducts studies such as the Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT), which evaluates the potential of a product to cause skin irritation or sensitisation under defined testing conditions. The company also offers testing for heavy metals, microbiological quality and preservative efficacy to help assess product safety and quality. In addition, it supports efficacy evaluation for claims related to hydration, oil control, brightening, anti-wrinkle benefits and other product-specific outcomes. These studies may use instrumental measurements and assessments involving human volunteers to generate objective evidence. This helps brands make informed formulation decisions and substantiate product claims through scientific validation.
Chemicals are not automatically harmful
With growing scrutiny around chemicals in skincare, Dr. Arora says consumers need to move beyond judging products by whether their ingredient lists contain unfamiliar or complicated chemical names. The presence of a chemical ingredient does not automatically make a skincare product harmful. Its safety depends on several factors, including the ingredient itself, its concentration, the overall formulation and how the product is intended to be used. An ingredient that is safe at an appropriate concentration may cause irritation or other reactions if used incorrectly or at unsuitable levels. Consumers should therefore understand the concentration, purpose and suitability of ingredients for their skin type. Products should also comply with applicable regulatory requirements, including restrictions on prohibited ingredients. In India, the relevant regulatory framework and applicable BIS standards help establish requirements for product safety and quality. Consumers should look for credible information and evidence-backed claims rather than relying entirely on viral ingredient lists or online trends. Scientific testing further helps assess whether a finished formulation meets relevant safety and quality requirements.
Why concentration and formulation compatibility matter?
Brands need to consider ingredient selection, concentration and formulation compatibility from the earliest stages of product development. Using an ingredient that is generally recognised as suitable is not enough on its own; it must be present at an appropriate concentration and work effectively within the overall formulation. Higher concentrations do not necessarily produce better results and may increase the likelihood of irritation. Scientific testing helps brands assess these factors through different methods. Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT) can help evaluate a product’s potential to cause irritation or sensitisation under defined conditions, while microbiological testing, heavy metal analysis and preservative efficacy testing help assess other aspects of product safety and quality. Stability studies are also important to understand whether a formulation maintains its intended characteristics over time. No single test can establish every aspect of long-term safety. Brands need a comprehensive testing approach based on the product’s intended use, ingredients and applicable regulatory requirements. Designing products to meet Indian and relevant international requirements from the outset can also help reduce the need for reformulation when entering new markets.
Meeting the demand for evidence-backed claims
Consumers are increasingly looking for skincare products that deliver visible and measurable results, making scientific validation an important part of product development. Auriga Research helps brands evaluate product performance and generate evidence to support claims related to hydration, oil control, brightening, anti-wrinkle benefits and other intended outcomes. Depending on the product and the claim being evaluated, studies may involve human volunteers, instrumental measurements and structured assessments. For example, specialised probes can measure parameters such as skin hydration, colour and elasticity, helping brands assess changes under defined testing conditions. Safety and quality assessments, including irritation studies, microbiological testing and preservative efficacy testing, provide additional information about the finished product. This approach helps brands understand whether a formulation performs as intended and whether the claims made about it are supported by evidence. Scientific validation is particularly important in a competitive market where many products may promote similar ingredients or benefits. It enables brands to move beyond marketing-led claims and build consumer confidence through credible product evaluation.
Separating evidence from marketing claims
One common misconception, Dr. Arora notes, is that trending skincare ingredients will work equally well for everyone. In reality, their effectiveness depends on factors such as skin type, formulation and ingredient concentration. Another misconception is that higher concentrations always deliver better results. For instance, increasing the concentration of Vitamin C from 5% to 10% or 20% does not necessarily translate into proportionately greater benefits and may increase the risk of irritation. Similarly, consumers often assume that a higher SPF automatically offers significantly better sun protection. While SPF 30 and SPF 50 sunscreens both provide substantial UVB protection when used correctly, moving to SPF 90 or SPF 100 does not mean a proportionate increase in protection. Scientific testing helps distinguish evidence-backed claims from marketing promises by evaluating a product’s safety, tolerability and efficacy under appropriate testing conditions. This enables brands to substantiate their claims and helps consumers make more informed choices.
Building safer, more transparent products
As ingredient-conscious beauty gains momentum in India, brands are increasingly competing on formulations that promise similar ingredients and benefits. However, the presence of a particular ingredient or a higher percentage on the label does not necessarily establish that a product will perform better. Its effectiveness also depends on the ingredient’s form, concentration, compatibility with other ingredients and stability within the formulation. Auriga Research helps brands evaluate these aspects through product testing and scientific validation. Depending on the formulation, this can include safety assessments, microbiological testing, preservative efficacy studies, stability testing and efficacy evaluations. These studies help determine whether the product maintains its intended quality and performance over time. Stability is particularly important because some formulations may change colour, develop precipitation or lose their intended characteristics during storage. Testing can help identify such issues before products reach consumers. By combining appropriate formulation design with scientific evaluation and compliance with applicable regulations, brands can make more credible claims, improve product reliability and build consumer trust.
Scientific testing as a competitive advantage for D2C brands
In India’s growing D2C skincare market, brands can quickly introduce products built around similar ingredients and consumer trends. However, attracting initial attention through marketing is only one part of building a sustainable business. Repeat purchases depend on whether a product delivers its intended benefits, maintains its quality and is suitable for its intended use. Scientific testing helps brands assess product safety, efficacy, quality and stability before launch. This may include irritation assessments, microbiological testing, heavy metal analysis, preservative efficacy testing and studies to evaluate claims such as hydration, oil control or brightening. Stability studies are also important to establish whether a product maintains its intended characteristics throughout its shelf life. For emerging D2C brands, this process can help identify formulation issues early, support evidence-based product claims and reduce the risk of launching products that do not perform as expected. Scientific validation also helps brands differentiate themselves in a crowded market. Ultimately, a strong skincare product needs more than an appealing ingredient list; it requires thoughtful formulation, appropriate testing and consistent performance.
Interview By: Sejal Thakur
